Borgo Egnazia, Puglia: review, itinerary and top tips for holidays with a family

One thing I’ve realised since I started travelling with kids is that hotels are more often than not either kids-first or parents-first (beware the family ‘friendly’ hotels that merely allow children to stay). The former is usually my preference these days; we’re happy to sacrifice an element of luxury for the freedom of having an abundance of options to entertain the kids. And that’s not to say that a kids-first hotel can’t still be luxurious, and after a recent stay at Borgo Egnazia in Puglia, I believe I’ve found somewhere that is as lavish and appealing for adults (even those travelling without kids) as it is for kids.

Relaxation is paramount here. The hotel is friendly, full of style and substance, and there are plenty of opportunities for indulgence – it’s hard to beat, whether you’re looking for a special trip with your kids, with three generations or just a gorgeous long weekend.

The resort

The resort is a sprawling white stone maze with olive trees and star jasmine everywhere (it’s not a resort in the sense that you might expect, as hinted at by the hotel’s ‘Nowhere else’ tagline). It’s instantly impressive, whatever time you arrive and no matter the weather, and it’s luxurious without being opulent – the hotel was inspired by Puglian farmhouses, so it’s rustic but ever so comfortable. Your dedicated concierge will show you straight to your room and check you in remotely. The family casettas have a large TV in every room (hidden behind wooden doors for when it’s not switched on), where you can log in to your Disney and Netflix accounts, and the bathrooms include large showers and baths. Everything is design-led, all whites and creams, wood and stone. The restaurants are similar, with darker neutrals, ginghams and plenty of local linen dressing the tables and the staff. If the activities, the beach or pool get too much, it’s thoroughly enjoyable to spend time unwinding in your room.

For kids, the sweet-spot in terms of age is probably slightly older (say, eight and upwards) to make the most of the bike riding, cooking classes, tennis academy and water sports on offer, but having travelled with a three- and a five-year-old, I felt there was plenty for them too, including one on one tennis lessons (which they loved); an exciting playground with impressive equipment; an on-site gelato shop with various sprinkles on offer; a shallow kids pool, as well as a second shallow pool that leads into a deep pool (it’s the simple things); a table tennis table; and bikes (and trikes) to hire. Babysitters are available, as is a kids’ club.

Food and drink

The breakfast buffet is a sight to behold, with fresh sponge cakes, yoghurts, fruit, fresh juices (pear! peach!), pistachio cream-filled croissants and boiled eggs. There’s also a separate à la carte menu for hot food options (eggs to order, avocado and ricotta cream on toast, etc).

The kids’ menus include pasta pomodoro, pasta pesto (the chef will make spaghetti or penne if the local orecchiette is too adventurous), lasagna or chicken cutlet and mash. Puddings include three-layer chocolate cream cake, fresh fruit cakes or ice cream. For the adults, it depends where you eat, but highlights at the main terrace restaurant include the softest meatballs you have ever tasted and herby ricotta tarts. At the beach club, Cala Masciola, the fish is caught fresh, and you can choose seabass, octopus and more directly from the tank.

At barbecue restaurant Fornello Fasanese you are greeted by the open fire barbecue set-up as you arrive. Dimly lit and surrounded by olive trees, it feels smart but not ostentatious – nice enough to dress up but casual enough that children feel welcome. Once seated, a set menu is brought straight over, and starters include the softest, tastiest aubergine parmigiana; caprese salad; fried courgettes; and veal carpaccio. Mains follow and include various local meats, including chicken, lamb, sausage and sweet breads, all served with salad and jacket potatoes.

Pizzas are served all day by the pool (as well as build-your-own salads and pastas), while milkshakes and fresh juices for the kids, and cocktails and delicious local wines are also available.

Exploring the area

If you can tear yourself away from the charms of the resort, the areas surrounding Borgo Egnazia have so much to offer. Ostuni’s striking architecture, excellent restaurants and beautiful beaches are a must (as is Cremeria alla Scala, a gelato shop that sells incredible almond ice cream) and some lovely ceramics shops. Ceramics obsessives will know that Puglia is a haven for them, and the best place is Grottaglie, about 40 minutes by car. It’s a whole town full of ceramics studios and shops, but go early or late because it closes at lunchtime.

The nearby towns of Ostuni and Monopoli are both great options for a day trip, and the nicest part of the coast for a beach excursion is on the Fasano coast – the water is calm and the beaches are sandy. For sightseeing, head to Monopoli for beautiful architecture before spending the afternoon at beach club Sabbiadoro (which has a great restaurant and snack bar too).

Need to know

Back at Borgo Egnazia,  there’s evening entertainment in a pretty, low-walled square that’s also home to the gelateria, with interactive magic, juggling, plate spinning and more.

You can’t stay without visiting the spa and wellness centre. Collectively, the spa, gym, wet area and indoor pool (which kids can use 10am to noon and from 3–5.45pm) is a sprawling and spectacular setup. At Vair Spa, inspired by ancient local traditions and using herbs from the on-site relaxation area (lemons, lavender, basil, rosemary), the therapists combine intense yet relaxing techniques in a menu of unique face and body treatments that resemble facials and massages, but not quite as you know them (having spent years in development). I opt for the masciara, a medium-intensity massage inspired by an ancient Apulian figure (Masciara) linked to popular and natural knowledge. The massage uses heated stones, warm towels and home-made lavender oil to create a deep state of relaxation.

The wellness centre hosts daily pilates, yoga, stretching, body flow and meditation classes, as well as seasonal outdoor activities including golf, mindfulness and cycling tours.

Our itinerary

Monday

We flew out to Bari from Gatwick at 7.20am (a bit earlier than we’d like in hindsight, but flights are limited in May and October as it’s not peak season). On landing, we’re met at the airport by the Borgo Egnazia transfer team, who hand each of us some water and bundle us into a people carrier with air con and car seats.

On arrival, we are introduced immediately to our concierge for the stay, who follows us to our Casetta and checks us in remotely from the room while staff bring pear juices for the kids, and tomato and olive focaccia and taralli.

We head to the main pool area for the rest of the day, where the children play in the two shallower kids’ pools.

We eat early (pizzas for the kids, elderflower spritzes and artichoke salads for us) at L’Angoletto, the poolside restaurant that serves a full menu of pasta, pizza and salads until 5pm, then pizzas only from 5–7pm, and a full menu again later in the evening.

There’s entertainment in the square each evening, which we stop at to watch: a mime character and assistant are juggling and asking kids to join in, and surprisingly, they all do. This is followed by plate spinning before we head to bed via the on-site gelato shop.

Tuesday

The rooms are supremely comfortable and relaxing, so although the kids wake early, we have a relaxing start before breakfast at 8am (it opens at 7.30am). Breakfast is buffet-style at La Frasca: the kids want yoghurt, cakes and fruit; we order eggs and coffee.

I attend a yoga session at the wellness centre, which makes me feel well just by being there. The class is busy – about 14 of us – and tough. We use balls as props, and the teacher makes regular trips around the room to correct us. Everyone is wearing Lululemon, and I am noticeably achy the next day.

We head to Cala Masciola, the hotel’s beach club, for lunch, where the kids have pasta pomodoro followed by strawberry sorbet. We opt for octopus salad, then the catch of the day (seabass) with homemade chips. We take the buggy there as it’s a bit of a walk (a buggy leaves every 20 minutes) and dip our feet in the sea before leaving. There’s a second beach club, but it’s only open in peak season (June–September).

The afternoon is spent again at the pool, with the kids flitting between the pool and the neighbouring playground, then dinner is at La Frasca, the main restaurant. We have meatballs followed by steak and linguine puttanesca, all of which is exceptional. The kids have pasta pesto followed by a white chocolate fruit cake and a triple-chocolate slice, which they devour.

Wednesday

We book a tennis lesson for the kids (€52/£45) and are told we can play on the next court (anyone can book a court and borrow rackets and balls for free). The teacher is brilliant, the kids love the lesson, and we all stay on for a while after

I have the machera massage at Vair Spa before lunch by the pool, and an afternoon of more swimming for the kids and relaxing poolside follows.

Dinner for the kids is at the poolside restaurant, and they head off for an early bedtime with a babysitter (€20 per hour), while my husband and I head to the barbecue restaurant for a feast of the best local meats at Fornello Fasanese among the olive trees. In hindsight, the kids would have loved it.

Thursday

I try iyengar yoga, a practice with ropes that is aimed at developing strength, flexibility, balance and personal empowerment. There are only two people in the class, which is tough but great. Then we head home. Three nights is the minimum I would recommend, five would be perfect.

Find out more and book at borgoegnazia.com

Images: Borgo Egnazia