Keen to begin using retinol? You won’t see its full potential unless you follow these dermatologist-recommended steps

Within the world of skincare, there are buzzy words cropping up as new It ingredients all the time. Some can be waved off as passing fads or a waste of money, but one of the ingredients always worth paying attention to is retinol.

Considered a gold star among dermatologists, retinol is one of the few ingredients that has been proven to really overhaul skin. Additionally, retinol serums are often touted by derms as one of the few products you need in your skincare routine (alongside vitamin C and SPF).

But when it comes to retinol, there’s often a sense of confusion and overwhelm about how to best use it. So, it’s no surprise that it’s one of the topics we’re asked about most on the beauty desk.

If you’re considering incorporating retinol into your routine, it’s important you know how to approach it. Case in point: when a friend started using retinol, I received a panicked message a couple of weeks later asking why her skin was breaking out, red and peeling. Instead of asking her which brand she used, my initial reaction was to ask how she used her retinol.

If you’re thinking about using a retinol for the first time, there are two important factors to consider to ensure you’re reaping the full benefits: its strength and frequency of use. “When you first start, your skin goes through a process called retinisation,” says Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and founder of Self London. “Retinoids speed up your cell turnover, but your skin’s barrier function needs time to catch up. If you apply it daily straight away, you overwhelm the skin, leading to redness, peeling and a compromised barrier. Using it every other day, or even less frequently, gives your skin recovery time between doses to build up tolerance safely.”

Dr Mahto recommends a phased approach: “My golden rule is start low and go slow.” For clarity, she breaks it down to:

• Weeks 1–2: apply it two nights a week
• Weeks 3–4: increase to every other night
• Week 5 onwards: if your skin feels happy and hydrated, try moving to nightly application

In terms of strength, always begin with a low percentage of retinol, which is around the 0.1–0.3% range. How do you know when it’s time to move up to the next strength? “You should only consider moving up a percentage once you have finished your current bottle and have been using it nightly with absolutely zero irritation for at least a month,” says Dr Mahto.

“If you are using it every night and your skin feels comfortable and you are no longer seeing ‘new’ results (a plateau), then you can graduate to the next strength. However, don’t get obsessed with percentages. Many of my patients stay on a medium strength for years because it gives them great results without the downtime. Higher isn’t always better; effective is better.

You may also find there are times when you need to go back to a milder strength. “Listen to your skin,” she says. “If you feel tight or sensitive at any point, drop back down a level. Consistency is far better than intensity. It is better to use a lower strength regularly than a high strength that you have to stop using every few days because it’s causing you issues.”

So if you’re thinking of starting to use retinol, remember: start with a low strength (0.1–0.3%), phase it into your routine slowly and only move up in strength once you’ve finished your bottle. And if you experience any irritation along the way? Strip it all back and focus on your barrier. We know not all skincare ingredients require so much thought, but trust us: the benefits of retinol make it well worth it. Here, we share a few options that are great if you’re just starting out…

Images: Adobe; courtesy of brands